Gulf Trip

Tuesday 22 July 2003

The earlier wildcat strike by the British Airways baggage handlers caused huge disruption and resulted in marqueues being erected outside Terminal 4 as holding pens to avoid the airport getting swamped. Complimentary sandwiches and drinks were on offer whilst passengers aimlessly wandered around waiting to be called for check-in.

Luckily, I was waiting only 15 minutes before the flight was announced and managed to check in without any problems for the 21.45 flight from London Heathrow to Dubai. I had a quick wander around Duty Free to procure some batteries for the Minidisc and a notepad for the journal and then decided to loiter with intent around the seating areas most likely to be nearest the departure gate which had not yet been confirmed. Unfortunately, my guess was completely wrong and I ended up making a mad dash to gate 5 along with everyone else. There was good reason to do so, BA was being exceptionally generous during the strike and upgrading passengers where possible. I sprinted ahead of everyone else who seemed to laden down with the worlds supply of cabin baggage and made third in the queue for which I was rewarded by an upgrade to Club Class.

Sitting on the plane waiting for takeoff, a fat bloke who had no other purpose except to annoy everyone and delay the flight started to kick up a fuss about the seating arrangements. In the middle of the commotion however, a group of fire engines screeched to a halt under the left wing and began to poke around inside the undercarriage. The firemen milled around looking concerned whilst one of the staff informed us that ground crew had smelt something burning outside, there was nothing to worry about and would everyone please check their emergency oxygen and evacuation procedure. An hour and a half later, we taxied off and my voyage was about to begin.

 

Wednesday 23 July 2003

The in-flight movies were nothing special but I always enjoy flying BA and Club Class was very peaceful and serene. Food was chicken and rice with BA pulling out all the stops to ensure it actually tasted of chicken and rice. I slept very little as I usually do on any flight (unless bored senseless) and spent most of the time listening to the Minidisc.

Dawn rose and with it, a vast desert as far as the eye could see. As we neared our destination, the calm, blue seas of the Gulf appeared, dotted with islands and sailing vessels. We began our descent and the tall buildings and skyline of Dubai loomed into view. The flight landed at 08.30 in 90% humidity and the temperature in the high 30's. Everyone always goes on about the heat and humidity in the Gulf during the summer months and how stifling it is yet I never found it unbearable or unpleasant. Sure it was hot and humid however it was tolerable and not at all the baking hot furnace that everyone warned me about. Besides, when you live in the UK, any exposure to nice weather has to be grabbed regardless.

Zipping through immigration, the long-standing tradition of my luggage always being last on the carousel was upheld with honour and dignity and after picking up my bags, I stepped out of the airport to be greeted by the hotel pickup. I was staying at the Crowne Plaza hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road and there were another two fellow travellers waiting patiently, luggage in tow. Bundling everything into the minibus and squeezing past the other two guests, both of whom looked like the comic book guy from The Simpsons, I got my first proper look at Dubai which seemed to be very clean, businesslike and full of endless highways, busy traffic and lunatic drivers.

The Crowne Plaza was majestic, opulent and absolutely splendid. It had its own mall, swimming pool, business centre and ballroom and I spent half an hour just wandering around whilst my room was prepared. I was on the 15th floor in room 1542 that had a splendid view of the Gulf with a far off vista of the famous Burj Al Arab hotel.

I met my friend JD at the hotel and we took a cab to the Deira City Centre shopping mall to grab a bite to eat. City Centre is one of the largest malls in Dubai with many department stores as well as a huge hypermarket that appeared to sell just about everything. JD and I wandered around before heading to the dining plaza where I had a grilled chicken sandwich and a tall glass of fresh fruit juices.

We had been invited for dinner that evening so we both returned to the hotel to get changed and freshen up. A short cab ride later we arrived at Sharjah where me met up with JD's mother, uncle, aunt and a few friends. JD's mother was absolutely lovely and we sat and chatted for a while before heading off to the Al Reem restaurant for some traditional Middle Eastern mezzes comprising meat, vegetables and various pastries. Having never smoked before, I also got my first taste of sheesha, which is the traditional Middle East water pipe used for smoking fruit flavoured tobacco. I had melon and very pleasant and relaxing it was too. By my second puff, I was higher than a hippy on the first day of Glastonbury and ready to start practising smoke rings.

We left the restaurant at around 1am and went for a short drive around Dubai which was still bustling with people and traffic. Back at the hotel, I showered, changed and 36 hours after my last sleep, eventually managed to nod off.

 

Thursday 24 July 2003

The temperature and climate in Dubai is not at all unpleasant and although I was visiting during the hottest time of the year, I found the weather very agreeable and not too dissimilar from being in a launderette. During my time in the Middle East, I very quickly fell into a ritual of opening my window first thing in the morning to spend five minutes just breathing in the warm Gulf air.

After a heavy sleep, I awoke at 1pm and headed to the BurJuman mall with JD for food. Cabs were cheap in Dubai and we'd end up taking them pretty much everywhere. Bur Juman has a fascinating water feature near the entrance that would send occasional jets of water shooting towards opposite sides of the fountain. It was a delight to watch and we settled down at a nearby cafe for a late lunch of Cajun chicken.

Dubai is full of shopping malls, most of which are centred around a particular theme or audience and we now visited Wafi that is one of the more exclusive shopping centres with many upmarket shops and restaurants as well as a beautiful pyramid atrium and structure reflecting traditional Arabic architecture. In contrast, Lamcy Plaza was a bustling sprawl popular with visitors from the Indian subcontinent and had a bizarre London Bridge replica structure along with some kind of radio show being broadcast live from the entrance.

In Dubai, most places close during the afternoon and the city really only comes to life in the evening. I'm not one for lazing around on a beach or staying inside which is why we spent a few hours wandering around shopping malls if only to kill time but we now headed back to the hotel to grab a bite to eat (Arabic chicken wrap) and a quick change of clothes as we were heading to Dubai's most exclusive nightspot, the Kasbar. This is a sumptuous and fabulously luxurious nightclub arranged over three floors that's part of an exclusive hotel complex. Parked outside were wall-to-wall Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, Porche's and all other manner of exotic cars whilst the traditional Arabic decor inside was suitably rich and ostentatious. The rather small dancefloor was arranged on the lower level with balconies, lounges and seating arranged around the side and on higher levels. JD and I headed for the upper level and hung out there watching the action below where people dripping in designer gear either sat in comfy chairs smoking sheesha or ventured onto the dancefloor.

The music was a mixture of mainstream pop (Misteeq's Scandalous and Rock With You by Justin Timberlake) along with conventional R&B (Hot In Here by Nelly, I Know What You Want by Busta Rhymes/Mariah Carey) and some very welcome deep house (Children by Robert Miles and Shiny Disco Balls by Who Da Funk/Jessica Eve). There was also a smattering of funky Arabic techno, however the DJ did precious little mixing and the crowd seemed quite content for him to just change tunes on the hoof. Overall, the sound system was great and the sets entertaining but it was clear that people came here for the setting and ambience and to be seen visiting an exclusive nightclub rather than anything else. As with most things in Dubai, it was how you portrayed yourself and how others perceived first and foremost.

The weekend takes place on Thursday and Friday in the Middle East and Kasbar was as busy as you'd expect for any popular Saturday night spot. We stayed until closing time which by law is 3am and then took a cab back to the Crowne Plaza.

 

Friday 25 July 2003

I got up at noon after a few hours of sleep and with no sign of JD, ventured outside to visit a nearby mosque. I'd seen this from my bedroom window at the hotel and wanted to take a closer look. It was also the first time that I'd really had the chance to just wander around outside free from the effects of any air conditioning. It was hot and as humid as ever yet I enjoyed it hugely and spent a good hour just strolling around outside much to the amazement of the locals who seemed to think I was quite mad.

Returning to the hotel I showered and changed as we'd been invited to lunch at JD's mother's house and would be spending the day there. Taking a 20 minute cab ride to Sharjah once more, we arrived in the afternoon and settled down to eat. Late lunch was a fabulous chicken biriyani, lamb dish and lentils with traditional yoghurt and a salad. This was the first home-cooked Arabic meal I'd ever had and far exceeded anything you would get in any restaurant.

My gracious hosts insisted I have several large helpings as they thought I was "too thin". This was typically generous Arab hospitality and I couldn't refuse. Besides, who was I to argue? Dessert was plenty of fresh fruit and just the thing after a superb lunch. We sat nibbling cherries, watermelons, bananas and pretty much everything else on a huge fruit bowl. I sent a quick email to my sister before settling down to finish a cup of coffee and have my fortune read. JD's aunt was there once again along with her friend who had quite a talent for reading fortunes from coffee grounds. I don't drink tea or coffee but it was all a bit of fun and I was keen to see what she would say. It was surprisingly thorough, quite accurate and I couldn't help but wonder at how she managed to tell so much from so little.

My fortune well and truly told, JD's uncle offered to take me for a drive around Dubai to see some of the places that were best served from the comfort of an air-conditioned car. We drove to Al Karama that is a true Middle East market place or souq where haggling is the order of the day and you can pretty much buy anything. We visited City Centre once more and although it was coming up to midnight, the hypermarket was as busy as ever with long queues at all the checkouts. Returning to Sharjah we bought a couple of tea's from a local shop and headed home chatting about Arab customs and culture that were all quite new to me. It was well past midnight before we were dropped back off at the hotel.

 

Saturday 26 July 2003

I'd already decided that I'd want to visit Bahrain whilst I was here and needed to sort out my ticket alterations. I awoke at 3pm and hastily cleaned up and dressed as the booking office closed at 5pm and I couldn't afford to leave it another day. Once again JD's mother came to my rescue and very kindly drove us around the various offices to make the necessary arangements. First stop was the Dnata complex that housed all the airlines. All except British Airways that is so it was back down Sheikh Zayed Road, past the hotel and to the BA office that was housed in one of the towers near the Crowne Plaza. On the way, JD called up Gulf Air to reserve me a ticket on the Monday evening Dubai to Bahrain flight.

Arriving at reception, we signed in and went to the BA office that was several floors up. A quick check confirmed that I was able to change my return flight and I was more than happy to oblige as I was very much looking forward to staying for a few extra days to visit Bahrain.

With all the flight changes done and dusted, it was time for food. JD's mother suggested the Irish Village that's a collection of restaurants, cafes and bars set in a pleasant oasis of greenery. We visited a Lebanese restaurant called Masaaj and had ice cream along with aniseed and apple flavoured sheesha. We sat and chatted for a while before JD's mother had to leave. JD and I took a quick stroll around the Irish Village which was very lively before taking a cab back to the hotel.

It was just past midnight when we arrived and both of us were hungry. With no other restaurants open we headed to the nearest Burger King for some food. One crap chicken special later and vowing never to eat fast food ever again, we left and returned to the Crowne Plaza to change and freshen up. The hotel had its own nightclub called Zinc so we thought we might as well see what it was all about.

Zinc was divided into a dance floor, bar and lounge area and was full of tourists. Music was the usual stocking fillers (2 Pac's California Love, Insane In The Brain by Cypress Hill and House of Pain's Jump Around) and it was a poor show in general with a boisterous and rowdy audience, mediocre DJ and the type of atmosphere that was no different to anything else you might in a dozen other hotels. It was obvious the free entry was the major attraction and this could have been any nightspot that you'd walk past without bothering to take a look inside. We stayed for an hour until it closed at 3am and then made our way back to the hotel rooms grumbling about how bad Zinc was compared to Kasbar.

 

Sunday 27 July 2003

A 2pm start saw JD and I grab a quick bite to eat before heading to the gold souq. I wanted to buy a christening gift for my 1 year old niece and the gold markets of Dubai were just the ticket. The souq itself was a wonderfully ancient collection of shops that had none of the air-conditioned comfort of the malls but all the real world charm of a traditional Middle Eastern market. Every other minute, we'd be accosted by smiling traders inviting us to buy solid gold Rolex watches or other improbably expensive jewellery at ridiculously cheap prices.

Of course, being a market, haggling is mandatory and this fascinated me enormously since the marked price was always discounted heavily. You'd see something advertised for say, 800 dirhams and ask the shopkeeper what his best price was at which stage he'd pull out a calculator and begin punching numbers into it before declaring he could sell for 500 dirhams. I don't really see the point of the advertised price as no one pays it so I can only assume that it's there to make you feel like you've bagged a bargain. At the other of the scale though once you have a good deal, be content with it and move on. I listened with interest as an American tourist who obviously thought he was a player desperately tried to lower the price of a gold chain by a mere 5 dirhams that amounted to all of about 80p.

By far, the best place that had the more modern and contemporary designs was a boutique called Damas where I bought a beautiful 22 carat gold baby bracelet before having a nosy around all the other places, most of which had very similar fare.

It was food time again so JD and I headed to the City Centre mall for some Iranian cuisine at the Hatam restaurant. We had a fabulous dish of chicken kebabs, rice, chelo lamb kebabs, flat bread and feta cheese. JD and I had both agreed to catch at least one movie whilst in Dubai so we headed to the cinema complex at City Centre and caught an evening showing of Terminator 3 which was a great sequel to the sequel.

Leaving the cinema, the night temperature unusually began to rise so we popped into the hypermarket for a couple of drinks and also paid the Virgin Megastore a visit where I bought a Charles Schillings CD. The house and dance section was miniscule compared to what you might find in the UK and the prices were not much cheaper however I'd been after this for ages and it'd been difficult to track down in the UK shops.

 

Monday 28 July 2003

Our last day in Dubai began at 12 noon when we packed our bags, checked out of the hotel and left our luggage with the concierge for the evening flight. JD and I headed to Pizza Corner near Baniyas Square for lunch (it was terribly mediocre but we were desperate) and then met up with JD's mother to say our farewells. I was sad to say goodbye as she had done a lot for us and made me feel very welcome.

Back at the hotel, we took the complimentary shuttle service to the airport and once again, were treated to the terrifying reality that is a Dubai highway. Dubai has the worlds most dangerous roads and it's not hard to see why. Absolutely nobody can drive and the official test seems to amount to little more than turning the ignition key and going 50 yards in a straight line. Both pedestrian and vehicular right of way is firmly dictated by the size and speed of your car. No one uses indicators, drifting across lanes is as normal as breathing and the only rule of the road is don't drive in the fast lane unless you have the kind of inane supercar owned by idiots with more money than sense. Which is praticallly all the local Emirate'!

It doesn't stop even when stationary; at traffic lights, be prepared for a barrage of horns to sound the moment they turn green and watch out for tailgating cars doing over 100mph that seem to be everywhere. I clung to the seat in front and fumbled for the seatbelt as the minibus sped off, narrowly missed the fender of an old Toyota and proceeded to join the highway in the manner of a getaway car escaping from a bankjob that had gone dangerously wrong.

At Dubai airport, I picked up my Gulf Air ticket to Bahrain and passed through security where a Saddam Hussein lookalike eyed my hand luggage suspiciously and was convinced that my Minidisc was a knife. Noticing the old fashioned 6-shooter slung casually in his belt, I decided to charm my way through and smiled sweetly telling him politely it was just a Walkman. With a curt nod, he waved me through and I was spared the ignominy of having the former Iraqi leader rummage around my personal belongings.

Dubai Duty Free sold just about everything at fairly cheap prices. I was after a watch and very nearly bought a Tag Heuer timepiece. However, the bracelet wasn't one of those nice chrome affairs so I reluctantly tore myself away and headed for the DVD's. Although the Middle East is region 2, Dubai Duty Free also has region 1 titles so I bought the Reservoir Dogs 2 disc 10th Anniversary Special Edition that isn't available in the UK. I'm terribly particular about these things!

Our flight left on time at 21.10 and just 20 minutes after takeoff, began its descent to Bahrain. I noticed with interest that the plane had to fly around the tip of Qatar rather than the more direct route over it and we landed at Bahrain International Airport at 21.00. Once again, I was eyed suspiciously by security but this time they took my passport and sat me down in a room where a senior officer appeared to be making a series of personal calls at the expense of the Bahraini taxpayer.

I think the guy at the desk had trouble understanding my English and as it was my first visit to the country, had extra reason to be suspicious. Either that or I just have that kind of face that asks for trouble. JD swiftly came to my rescue though and with a few carefully aimed and barbed words of Arabic, my passport was returned and we headed out to the baggage reclaim area.

Even though we'd checked in together, JD's baggage appeared almost instantly whereas mine was last as usual, something that seemed to have no plausible explanation other than the baggage handlers spotted the name tag and made sure it was the last in line. JD's aunt met us at the airport and drove us to JD's apartment in Manama.

Although it was dark outside, I was able to see plenty and my first impressions of Bahrain were that it was much hotter and drier than Dubai and far more surburban and more like the Middle East that I'd expected to see. There was a real sense of depth and character to the place and it felt far more personal and amiable than Dubai. More importantly, the driving was much better and I knew I'd found my home in the Gulf.

 

Tuesday 29 July 2003

JD had a lot of chores to do so we rose at 10am and headed to the insurance office in the Diplomatic Area and then to a property management group at the Sheraton Complex. This was an expensive mall built next to the Sheraton hotel containing upmarket shops and boutiques so it was no surprise to see the place empty as JD explained that few locals visited.

With all the chores out of the way, we drove to the Al Seef district for a quick pitstop at CitiBank and then headed to the wealthy Budaiya region for lunch at the exclusive Country Club. This is a resort for expats and members only containing a swimming pool, sports bar and restaurant set in a very leafy and secluded park. The place was deserted and we visited Brenigans for lunch. Our starter was a Greek salad with feta cheese and bread and for my main course, I had chicken with rice. The food was quite good however it was very obvious that this was fare that had been altered for the Western palate. The service was courteous and polite as you'd expect but appallingly slow. I don't think I've ever waited as long for a meal as I did here and wondered whether they were shipping in the ingredients from overseas. My rice was far too creamy, full of sultanas and cashew nuts and had a quite sweet flavour which is not how this dish should have tasted.

Leaving the Country Club after a quick wander around the gardens, we drove around the Saar district to the Miami Compound that was another expats only area, a world away from the rest of Bahrain. We also passed through Hamala and Jesra where the Bahraini royal family used to live. Now inhabited by locals, Jesra was full of grand and imperious looking buildings. Hamala Beach was another exclusive place albeit for visitors and was very nice. A lovely beach front resort with chalets lapped by the warm sea green waters of the Gulf, this was definitely my type of place with only a handful of visitors, plenty of space and a beautifully tranquil and serene ambience.

Our next stop was the King Fahd Causeway to Saudi Arabia which is a long highway across the sea connected by a series of smaller islands. At the border zone, we visited the tower that looks like something out of a 1980's Sci Fi movie and provides fabulous panoramic 360-degree views of the Gulf. Heading back to JD's place, we grabbed some takeaway food to eat at home which was an incredibly tasty Arabian lamb tikka kebab and khubase, which is the traditional Iranian flat bread.

 

Wednesday 30 July 2003

We rose at 10am and showered and dressed. JD's aunt had invited us to lunch at her house that was in the district of Jurdab near Isa Town. JD's aunt's house was large and the epitome of Arab elegance and taste. Lunch was an equally fantastic affair consisting of rice, lamb mince with potatoes and a Bahrain speciality called Safi. This is a fish native to the Gulf and is stuffed with spices, cooked over a grill and served whole. Incredibly tasty, it was a perfect complement to the rice and lamb and instantly became my favourite Gulf dish.

Afterwards, we retired to the lounge for fruit and Arabic tea that is light, refreshing and just the thing even for a non-tea or coffee drinker like me. JD's aunt had several date trees in her garden and it was a real treat to sample the fruit fresh from the trees.

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We stayed for most of the afternoon and then left to take in more of Bahrain. Passing through Sanad and then Sitra, which was a vast industrial wasteland, we drove first to Old Juffair and then New Juffair where the contrast of buildings was very distinct with the latter being another expats area full of expensive high-rise blocks and accommodation.

Returning home, we had a quick chat with JD's mother who called to ask how I was finding Bahrain and then drove to the Dana mall for our supper. We bought a couple of takeaway subs and came home to eat and watch a movie, the satellite channels here in the Gulf often showing the latest blockbusters just months after release, far quicker than in the UK.

 

Thursday 31 July 2003

An embarrassingly late start saw JD and I get our act together at 3pm. We drove to Al Bander that was the most exclusive resort in Bahrain and manned by security guards. You needed to be well connected as entry was strictly by paying membership only and luckily for us, another of JD's aunts was able to get us in with her card. Because of the waiting list for Al Bander membership, the place was full of wealthy, educated English speaking locals, expats, businessmen and pretty much everyone else who was anything in Bahrain.

Along with jet skis, swimming pools, a plethora of chalets, cabanas and barbecues, there was also a harbour, piers, bars, restaurants and boats aplenty. JD and I sat smoking sheesha and chatted for hours on end whilst the sun began its slow descent to the horizon leaving a magnificent crimson sky in its wake. A lazy stroll around Al Bander revealed a wealthy sheikh who had taken a chalet and was obviously getting some action away from the wife. His two guards mooched around outside by the Mercedes complete with Government plates whilst JD and I exchanged sly glances towards the drawn curtains.

We left Al Bander just after 8pm and headed home to change. Supper was to be a formal affair at the decidedly swanky La Taverna Italian restaurant in Manama city. For a starter we had a tasty soup with garlic bread followed by a grilled chicken breast and vegetables, conventional fare but new to me as all the food in the Middle East is halal so I was eager to try anything. We went for a relaxing drive around Bahrain and then headed home. When I finally retired it was with a heavy heart as I knew that this would be my last night in Bahrain. I was missing it already.

 

Friday 1 August 2003

I awoke at 11am, showered and dressed. Despite it being a small island, there was still plenty to see and do in Bahrain. After a quick visit to the mosque for Friday prayers, we drove to the Al Aali mall for lunch at the Al Abraj restaurant. This had cuisine from all over the world and was one of the few places open during the afternoon. JD and I shared a mixed grill of chicken and lamb kebabs together with fresh yoghurt. The mall was closed, however a jewellery store was open and I was still after a watch so we ventured inside. After trying on several models, I found three that I liked and settled on a white dial chronograph.

Leaving Al Aali, we drove past the Al Seef mall and headed to Manama souq. This was a pure old school market place dating back centuries with narrow winding streets and weird and wonderful shops selling anything and everything. You got the impression that things hadn't changed here much for hundreds of years.

I'd already had one experience with a fortune-teller in Dubai and whilst I didn't really believe in it, we decided to visit another one in Riffa. The fortune-teller was an old Egyptian woman and I found her far more vague and less precise than in Dubai although JD told me that her analysis of my coffee cup was a lot more consistent than before. Once again though, I couldn't help but wonder over how two different fortune-tellers were able to both provide identical analysis based upon different intepretations.

Our next stop was a fort that dated back to Bahrain's colonial roots. Although it was closed, we were able to walk around the building and enjoy the fabulous views. Driving down the hill, we passed through West Riffa where all the Sheikhs lived and then through Manama to see Khamise that was the first mosque built in Bahrain in the 17th Century. The neighbouring district was Burhama where all the affluent folk lived and the houses were large, well kept and very distinctive.

Returning back to JD's place, I didn't want to leave at all and moodily got my things together without saying a word. JD's mother called and I said goodbye to her along with all other good folk I'd met on my trip. We had one final drive to enjoy the Bahrain night and visited the Al Arad fort before driving to the airport where I exchanged a sad farewell with JD. I'd miss Bahrain and JD's company enormously and it was hard to close the car door and walk away.

I entered the airport and went through security. For some reason I always seem to choose the wrong queue and this time I was stuck behind a complete muppet at check-in who spent the best part of twenty minutes messing around with the worlds supply of luggage. He was a middle aged Arab guy oblivious to the glowering mob gathering behind him and when he eventually strolled off, I glared at him with the intent of placing a pair of tongs around his neck to give him a good shake until his teeth rattled.

There was no upgrade this time round as the 01.05 British Airways flight to London was fully booked (flights from the Gulf to London are always busier than London to the Gulf) however I was in no mood for pleasantries anyway. I paid the airport tax and entered duty free to wander around and find a calling card. Having bought one, I phoned JD from the airport for a last chat. We talked for some 30 minutes about Bahrain and I promised to returned as soon as I could. Last call was announced and I reluctantly bid JD a final farewell. Running for the departure gate, I was the last to board and got a window seat near the rear of the plane. As we taxied for takeoff, I took a last look at Bahrain and thought about when I would next be able to visit again.

 

Saturday 2 August 2003

My companion this time round was a small boy who was engrossed in his Harry Potter book. I noticed he had a Gameboy Advance in his bag and wondered whether I could get a go on it later on, perhaps in exchange for a pre-supper Kit Kat that had been handed out by the crew. The flight left on time and I put on my Minidisc to drift off. The in-flight movie was X-Men 2 however I really wasn't in the mood for watching a film.

The flight seemed to drag on and as we approached London, my patiance began to wear thin as the pilot circled twice above Gravesend and then started the descent before circling sharply once more above Westminster. We were still at only 8,000 feet and I watched in alarm as we lurched towards the London Eye that was so close I was able to see the look on the tourists face there, incredulous at the sight of a Boeing 777 bearing down upon them like a huge great bird of prey.

We landed on time at 06.15 in fine sunny weather and once again, I waited far too long for the` luggage to appear. My annoyance was complete when I queued for a taxi and was rewarded by the deafest, oldest cab driver in the entire world. I spent the journey to my sisters bellowing instructions to him and eventually arrived 30 minutes later.

I enjoyed my trip to the Middle East enormously and my lasting memory of Dubai is of a place full of elegant hotels, shopping malls, sheesha, mad drivers and endless highways. I felt it was very easy to be anonymous in Dubai and although it was a nice place to visit, I much rather preferred Bahrain as it was more personal and crucially, had a soul with an accompanying history. The contrast between the two is quite significant and both cater for different audiences. Dubai has built its success on the influx of tourists, expats and foreign investment that you see at every corner and has few locals whilst Bahrain is less clinical, more homely and relaxed and has more charm and appeal. Both countries have progressed rapidly but whereas the Western influences in Dubai are especially apparent in the tall, gleaming spires of the high rise-buildings, Bahrain remains more true to its traditional Middle East roots and culture.

With year round sunshine, a high standard of living, clean streets, low taxation and virtually no crime, one can clearly see where the attraction lies in both Dubai and Bahrain, not least in the quality and pace of life that has none of the burdens of a hectic 24/7 metropolis. Undoubtedly, I'll return to both especially Bahrain as I'd left a part of me behind in a country that was all too easy to enjoy.